Sunday, April 5, 2009

Jerusalem - Day 7

Breakfast today was the same as the day before.

We drove to the Mount of Olives to see the views of the city below. When we got off the bus, the street vendors were practically assaulting us they were so pushy and so in our faces. I had to shoo away by hand the kid who was getting in my face. Little snot. Another woman from our trip also yelled at him (and threatened to call the police, though I think they would not have done anything; they have more important things to worry about). But I don’t want 4 bags that say Jerusalem on them, no matter how cheap, and no, I don’t want to ride a camel or buy postcards. I just want people out of my face! We in America have the luxury of personal space and are very used to it and are very uncomfortable when that space is “invaded”. But I managed to take some decent pictures of the city, mosques and all.

After this, we were on our way to the Western Wall (Wailing Wall). We walked around the complex (the ruins of the temple complex) for a while and made our way to the actual wall. We saw several Bar-Mitzvas and maybe a wedding (I saw a Chuppa). In order to get to the actual gate, we had to go through a security checkpoint. I don’t think I ever went through in as many checkpoints as I have on this trip. But as busy as it was, we were able to make it to the actual wall and pray. Each in our own way, as we know how. I had my notes and I stuck them into the crevices between the stones. Yes, other notes fell out, but I put them back as well.
It was a truly moving experience. I don’t consider myself religious, but this is certainly a very spiritual place. One woman from our group called it “life changing”. I don’t know it I’d go that far, but it was certainly a strong and emotional way to connect to my roots. Being Jewish on an intellectual level (knowing that you’re Jewish and accepting it) is one thing, being Jewish on a spiritual level (feeling this connection to the past generations and to God) is another. I brought a lot of tissues. They were needed.

After this emotionally heightened experience we walked in the Old City; the Jewish Quarter, the Muslim Quarter, and the Christian Quarter. In the old city, the Jewish Quarter is the second smallest; only the Armenian Quarter is smaller. We walked through the Roman Cardo, the street that was the heart of the city. It had the shops. We also walked partially on the Via Dolorosa and visited some of the Stations of the Cross.
While there, we saw the typical daily life in the city. Kids running, people selling fruit or bagels or other things, art galleries, etc.
At this point, we arrived at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The church was really pretty. Lots of stunning mosaics covered the walls and floor. And there were Russians. Need I say more?

Saw King David’s tomb. The building is essentially a mosque but is used as a synagogue and on the roof you can see the minaret. On the 1st floor there is a church (the synagogue is on the floor below) and is really not church-like at all. Nothing Christian is in there. Though it’s the traditional site of the Last Supper. The room isn’t large, but not too small. Da Vinci’s table would most likely not fit, but you can fit probably 50 people for a Seder in that room.

Lunch was planned very poorly. Our guide pointed out a restaurant and said that we had 45 minutes for lunch. Some people didn’t even get their lunch for the first 50! The food was so-so (except the potatoes) and the prices high.
In general, I feel that our lunches were planned very poorly and are very expensive. We always end up eating at a cafeteria that’s attached to an attraction (a cafeteria at the ruins or at the museum or some other place where you carry your own tray). The food is typical for such places and the prices are astronomical. I was hoping the situation would be more like what I had in Portugal, where we’d have about an hour to an hour and a half and the tour guide pointed out the specialty of the region and a handful of restaurants. This was not the case here.

We finally made it back to the hotel and I had a few hours to relax before meeting some folks for dinner. Dinner on our own was great. Our first stop was at the Jerusalem YMCA. The building is amazing and like no Y I’ve ever seen. Coffered ceiling that’s decorated, archways that are decorated, amazing flooring, etc. It also has a tower that you can climb for 5 shekels. But after a full day of walking I was in no mood to go up 200 steps.
After the Y we crossed the street to the King David hotel. This building has a history (like most things in this ancient land). Part of it was blown up during the War of Independence since it was the site of the British. The view from the terrace bar was like no other; the views of the sun imparting its golden glow on the buildings that are on the hill below are not like any you’d ever see. Inside, we had a drink at their bar and chatted for a while. It was very lovely. Very relaxing and it turned out that the couple I joined for dinner shares many of my views. Phew!
After the drink we went to Canella, a continental kosher restaurant. The food was delicious, and the chef sent out a few things for us we didn’t order, just as a nice gesture. With these additions, it turned out to be a 3-course meal. We ordered an appetizer, the chef sent out a soup, and then we got the main course. The wait staff was incredible; the table was cleaned between each meal and even the silverware was replaced.
The food was fantastic and I was craving fish, which almost never happens. But it was lip-smacking and I finished the whole thing. This dinner was very well the 100 shekels ($25), unlike most lunches which run about $12 and you get a falafel and a drink.
On our way back from dinner, we saw a few other folks from our group walking back to the hotel(s).
When I got to the room, I copied the photos from the memory card to the computer and fell asleep immediately. It was a long and emotional day and I knew I’d need the energy for the following day - we have Yad Vashem on the agenda.

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